the top. Measure the distance straight down from the shoulder seam to the level where you want the neckline to be, in a line parallel to the button placket. and styles, the information on this site is presented without warranty regarding I have to learn a lot!. Youll need to add one more row to resolve all those double stitches, so the formula is: Rows worked in raglan shaping per pattern - neck shaping rows - 1. The relatively smooth raglan lines on a sweater have to hang over these spots where curves get steeper and shallower. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top-down and involves a long, slanted (or sometimes curved) seam running from the neck to the underarm. If you notice a garment has a funnel shape, thats coming from the shaping rate in the raglan (or if working a round yoke, in the yoke chart). If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. If you do a few calculations, you can adjust for yourself, in the same way, to fit a pattern exactly to your body shape. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. P.S. When I pick them up to begin my neck, those increase stitches look funny picked up and knitted. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. Thank you so much if you can help! Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. His tailor developed this style of sleeve to be more comfortable for him after the loss of his arm. Looking forward to meeting you in September. 40% will create a rounder neckline, 55% will be more shallow. There's one special thing about raglan sweaters that I see overlooked in so many designs. Use spreadsheet software to create custom grid paper that matches your gauge by adjusting the number of pixels in the rows and columns, and then applying a light gray outline to each cell. Whether . Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. I just ordered Your first book. The style of these "lines" can be different depending on the design, but here are some examples of what it looks like this: Arlo & Alice baby/child cardigan The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion Expect that at some point in the future. You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. On small-busted women, especially those with large upper arms or lower bodies, these same lines can serve to emphasize that disproportion. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. You can definitely think critically about the instructions you encounter in patterns you follow or you could use it to write your own knitting pattern. IMO. Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows - JP Knits Things Knit Design TipsHow I design a top-down raglan pullover Kristen TenDyke's Blog: How I design a top-down raglan pullover I just love this sort of historical stuff. I am so grateful that you give examples and this excel file.Now I can start to design my own sweaters and I really happy and thankful. The reason for this is so that the pattern can be continued down the body when you no longer need raglan increases. You can tell a sweater has raglan construction when you see 2 diagonal lines on each side (and on both the front and the back), starting at the inside neck and ending at the underarm. A raglan has a true yoke, often worked in one piece, and is particularly suited to working in the round. The style is was named for Fitzroy Somerset, Lord Raglan, the commander-in-chief of forces during the Crimean War. Subtract starting front neck depth from desired front neck depth to get neck shaping depth. By understanding what the designer had in mind and what YOU need, you can intervene in an informed way. The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked All of the shaping is the same, only instead of turning away from stitches, youll bind them off. Lisa Shroyer, from Knitting Plus The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. But you wouldn't solve this by working right back and forth across between the back raglans. measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. #7 How to Knit Raglan Shaping, Knitting For Beginners, Sheila - YouTube The sleeves are worked from the top down starting with stitches picked up from around the armhole.. stitch for your test piece, you will have to mentally substitute the name of your pattern stitch Im about to start knitting a top-down raglan sweater in the round with short rows in the back. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. You do this by knitting to the sleeve, using a tapestry needle threaded with waste yarn and slipping all of the sleeve stitches onto the thread (tie it together, so you dont lose the stitches!!). or if you are a beginner this pattern may not meet all your needs. The first that I want to talk about is top-down seamless raglan. Browse designs or Try DIY Tuesday Tip: How to Measure Armhole Depth - Patty Lyons They look a little different at the top because of the final bind-off, but that difference disappears when you work in the round. if you'll be casting on 16 underarm sts, you'll work raglan increases in the front/back until you have 83 sts, then 16 will be cast on at the underarm, giving you 99. . Love the changes. of that measurement. I enjoy raglan sweater knitting, and I know you will, too. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Start here! The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. raglans darts button hole placement skirt flares bias knitting gathered sleeves circular yokes If you need to increase (or decrease) a specific number of stitches within a specific number of rows there is a reliable way to calculate this. Please note: I am so tired of looking for a pattern that I have in my head with yarn that doesnt seem to match any of their gauges! It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam. try to match someone else's gauge. Why dont traditional raglans always fit womens figures perfectly, even when designers, crocheters, and knitters have achieved the perfect armhole depth? This is Linda, wearing Soft Structure, which has a shallow V-neck, and more increases in the front than the back - worked beneath the underarm. This week we're going to talk about adding length to your sweater and adding optional waist-shaping. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other If you havent already, take a minute to check out the other posts in this series. So cute for a summer tee, dont you think? The raglan sweater is characterized by diagonal shaping along the join between the sleeve cap and upper body. Increases are made around four fixed points. You will also have a clearer sense right away if you are going to run out of yarn or not, as you will be able to see the full progress of the entire garment as you knit it. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. I prefer to turn to the wrong side of the work and using a Cable Cast-On, which is lovely and firm. What I frequently do instead is space the increases out so increase rows are every other row instead which correct both issues I find. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. This sweater goes by formula (you will find percentages in parentheses), and up to the underarm is identical with my #4 Brooks and #8 Raglan models. This method of FBA can look kind of odd off a body because of how it changes the appearance of the raglan, but it looks just fine on. How to Knit 4 Different Types of Raglan Increases - YouTube If you use some other Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? To create a raglan, a designer will determine the desired yoke depth, shoulder width (stitches at the neck), neck width, bust circumference, and bicep circumference. Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. I have downloaded it into my computer and will have it available any time I need it. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. 2) Each human body follows some geometrical principles and ignores others. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. If you want to join me virtually for a 12-week knitting adventure as we mastergarment fit and modification, then my signature masterclass is waiting for you here. Thank you for the information it is very helpful. :), I am currently knitting your Travelers End pattern and I am loving the cable pattern. Knitters in larger sizes will often need to increase every row, and will need to add more body stitches than sleeve stitches. Round to an even number. The content is awesome. Once youve worked those rows, place a stitch marker in the middle of the front stitches (if its odd number of stitches, mark the middle stitch with a locking stitch marker). It can be US or mm sizes. I added red lines to make these changes easier to see (and to make Euclid cry). One question shows up again and again: What formula do you use to shape a raglan? Row 2 (WS): DS, work in pattern on WS to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. Half of our bottom neck stitches come before the marker. Raglan Fundamentals Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. A raglan can be worked either bottom-up (with decreases to shape the pieces) or top-down (with increases to shape the pieces). Personally Ive never seen a sweater design that suits everybody and that every crocheter or knitter adores wholeheartedly, without reservations. If youre not a raglan-lover, decide whether your lack of affection stems from this sweaters armhole shaping and how it works for your unique figure, or if you simply need to tweak fit as you make your raglans. How would I increase these areas to get about a 2inch increase? Heres Interweave Knits Editor and Knitting Plus author, Lisa Shroyer, to tell you more about raglan construction and how it works for plus-size knitting. Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. When Lisa Shroyer discussed armholes that do and dont work for knitters, she noted the figure attributes that can get in the way of raglan love. Beginning at the neck, the number of stitches on the front (s), back, and sleeves increase at regular intervals along these lines. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102, Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows. This ones for designers and knitters - lets talk about what makes a raglan click! So if youre a designer, youve got a stitch count at the sleeve and a stitch count in the front and back. I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a Put on a button-down or other non-stretch shirt with a shoulder seam. You can find more info about Anne Marie and the services she offers here. Pattern + overview / Part 1: Casting on and marking raglans / Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping / Part 3: Finishing the neck and yoke / Part 4: Separating the sleeves and body / Part 5: The art of sweater shaping / Epilogue: The possibilities are endless. Is this correct? Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. Because were using short rows, the total rows used must equal neck shaping rows. E.g. Bottoms Up Raglan is presented in one size only for now. Change the width of the front and back cones, and you affect the sleeve width too. Thank you soon much for the tutorial. My FO demonstrates the wisdom of her advice (as well as her eye for a stunning cable motif). The sleeve cap is a triangle that mirrors the shape of the armhole, with the top of the sleeve (the neck edge) measuring 0 to 4 (0 to 10 cm); plus sizes fit best with at least 1 (2.5 cm) remaining at the top of the sleeve. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. So when I pop in the measurements there is NO WAY that thing fits The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Yoke depth is determined by the body's dimensions, Raglan shaping needs to mirror the body's shape, "Raising the back neck too quickly," and other short row shaping myths, Myth 1: Short rows in raglans can be worked across the back neck only, Myth 2: Short rows in the neckline can raise the back neck too fast, Modifying a raglan sweater to fit you perfectly. What about when I get to the next sleeve? The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. As Jennifer Wood explains in Refined Knits (and further explicated in a helpful emailthanks, Jennifer! Short rows cant accommodate long vertical lines because all the stitches stay live on the needle. maybe using some of the increments from the other sweater calculator that goes in sizes sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. With all of this in mind lets take a look at the increasingly popular raglan style sweater. Is it possible to cut the armhole and add a rhombus or some similar piece? However you can still get a trim fit with the addition of waist or bust shaping. The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. When I think about it I think Im just following and exaggerating the way the individual stitches lean so it wouldnt matter- when I get to the next sleeve I would do them in the same order. Knitters in small sizes usually need to make more increases for the sleeve than the body, and have to work fewer increases per row. Remember - we are avoiding knitting front stitches, and finishing the sleeves and back of the shoulder as normal. Multiply neck shaping depth by your row gauge to figure out how many rows youll be working this shaping over. To help you apply this to your own project, I've created a downloadable PDF worksheet - you can get that here: I have noticed that neckline shaping is most often omitted when theres colorwork, and knitting (and designing) a colorwork sweater is easiest when worked from the bottom up. When you have finished the raglan yoke increases, you still need to join the body together. 6-7 - somewhere in that range. Day 5 Pattern - click here for a PDF of sizes XS through XXL! LCx3 - work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches) LCx2 - work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches) ssk - slip as if to knit, slip as if to purl, knit the 2 slipped sts together. If you have an odd number of neck stitches, Bottom neck stitches should also be odd, and if you have an even number of neck stitches, bottom neck stitches should be even. Check the illustration below. If you've seen a pattern that has short rows that are worked just between the raglan columns in the back, you probably want to skip those rows. The only difference between the two? While it looks like Caelius uses yarnovers as the increases, its actually got a centred decrease with a yarnover, and then the increases are outside this. Up until now, these patterns have only been available as part of the book, but over the coming weeks, Ill be releasing the individual patterns one at a time! Want to go deeper on front neck shaping? Typically patterns suggest a Backwards Loop Cast-On. How to knit a compound raglan - KT's Slow Closet - Fringe Association A sporty bit of knitwear that can take on many personalitiesfeminine and lacey, structured and austere, simple and chunky, or refined and fitted. Or be a bit Please confirm you want to block this member. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. We know well need to close the gap between our bottom neck stitches and our neck stitches by eliminating stitches as we work towards the neck. how to improvise a top-down sweater Archives - KT's Slow Closet A child's proportions Do not round this number. 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Then I admitted to making several top-down raglans as I explained how Id adapt a knitting pattern for yet another one. Yoke-shaping is governed by measurement; let us take as an example the sweater given below. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? Weve already covered many fitting tips and techniques in this series, and heres our final suggestion: compound raglan shaping can also refine fit. For many women, these are unfortunate places for excess fabric. These tutorials and the mention of your Craftsy course have given me more tools and confidence that I may actually make a decent go at making one of these designs! I add a factor to the chest measurement. This is a diagonal measurement and is more or less useless for predicting your fit because you won't know where it begins or ends in relation to your neck or your underarm. Overall the lack of structure particularly at the shoulders can make for a less durable sweater. Knitting a Raglan Sweater Pattern the Simple Way | Interweave Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. When the raglan increases end early and there are many rows of straight knitting before getting to the point where the stitches are added for the underarm join, I have found that the finished sweater doesnt always lay flat just in the upper chest and back. Cant wait to get going! Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? With adding these instructions I will be able to knit easy Things that fits well.Dorothee. Increases are made around four fixed points. By increasing evenly in all four sections of the sweater, you're creating raglans at a 45 angle to the neck . This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. Now compare the raglan sweaters geometry to the bodys geometry. Raglan: [biographical name] 1st Baron 1788-1855 FitzRoy James Henry Somerset British field marshal. All Rights Reserved. I know how much time and detail you have put into this and I sincerely appreciate it! You can get that same weird built-up neckline look from a sweater with or without short rows or neck shaping. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. The best feature of this method is that you don't need to change your needle size or yarn to Most body shapes dont increase the size of their upper arms as fast as the bust size increases. All of the shaping is the same, only instead of turning away from stitches, youll bind them off. Comments must be approved before showing up. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. Because the shoulders and armholes are not well defined on a raglan sweater, there tends to be a little extra fabric in the underarm area. This was traditionally the most common method of top-down knitting as its very easy to knit. This means that for larger bust sizes using traditional construction, the sleeves will be too large. These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify. However, generally, a neckline is more comfortable to wear if the front is a little lower than the back. This takes care of the extra fabric in the armhole area that can arise from the traditional raglan. With the left needle tip, reach down and pick up the left leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on your right needle. That code will be available when you purchase the patterns or digital book. Working a smaller size and realize the yoke is too shallow? That means the formula is: ((Stitches in front neck bottom neck stitches) divided by two) 1 = stitches to shape out on each side. It is not a sophisticated method. The Audubon Shrug by Lisa Shroyer, from her book, Knitting Plus.Raglan sweaters can be attractive on plus-size women, but its an issue of individual shape. So what can you do with all this info? Knitting is about 90% (don't quote me on that %, it's an estimate) math, and that's what Excel is great at, so it's pretty natural, I think, to use them together. If you have an odd number of stitches, the formula is: While continuing to follow raglan shaping and stitch pattern: Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to C sts before the marker / marked stitch, turn. This gives you 8 increases (or decreases). To counter them, add a few extra decreases in the yoke. About the needle size. (8 sts inc at raglans, 2 at front neck, per inc row) There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! For the raglan inc, when you add in the different directions for sleeve increases only or body increases only, those formulas do not seem to add up. And before you go any further, obssessed in the quest of a free pattern, It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. Lisa's List: 6 Armholes and How to Make them Work for Your Body I cant wait to try this formula out. However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. I just purchased Caelius to knit for my teen daughterit will be my first A-line sweater and I think the Dovestone DK is the perfect yarn. Best wishes and keep going with this unique, understandable and helpful content. May I ask, when knitting a raglan top down and adding short rows to raise the back neck, do you do these once you are already knitting in the round, or do you do a few back and forth rows? UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? Because all the stitches stay on the needle, there would be a large gap between stitches. As near as I can tell, that's happening because the designer has heard that they need to add short rows to the back but they don't really understand why or how. The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest From the website: "The percentage method of creating a sweater pattern uses the chest measurement plus an allowance for ease of fit as a basis for all other measurements. Kniterator, the top-down raglan knitting pattern calculator Simple Worked-From-The-Top Raglan Pullover Pattern Calculated by the Percentage Method. You'll want to add no more than about 5/8" right beneath the collar, and if you need to make up extra length you can work some short rows in the middle of the back too. (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. Yet not all crocheters and knitters embrace the raglan as we have done. Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. Common misconception: all raglans increase in the front and body every other row and are seamless. A raglan is a shoulder construction where the sleeves come all the way up to the neck. Its very rare that a raglan wont need front neck shaping - the shoulder width needs to be about six inches wide for that to work.